Prince Charles and Neal's Yard Dairy: the patron saints of British cheeses

Prince Charles has been a major influence on the rise of British cottage cheese culture, and together with Neal's Yard Dairy, he has helped raise awareness of these delicious cheeses, which represent Britain's rich cheese scene.

When Major Patrick Rance set out to study British country cheesemakers for his book "The Great British Cheese Book" in 1974, there were only 62 cheesemakers left in the entire British Isles. They were the few who had continued to make traditional cheeses after the rationing of World War II.

But at the turn of the 1980s, many retailers began selling traditional foods as a counterbalance to modern mass production. Among these , Neal's Yard Dairy stepped into the country cheese business in particular.

After starting out in the late 70s as a producer of cream cheeses and Greek-style yogurts, Neal's Yard Dairy soon realized that their knowledge of cheesemaking and traditional culture was at a very early stage.

Then, when a farmhouse cheesemaker brought a sample of his cheese, Randolph Hodgson drove straight to the cheesemaker, excited. He ended up driving back to London in his rag-picking Citica full of farmhouse cheeses. The rest, as they say, is history.

Randolph Hodgson (left) at Neal's Yard Dairy in the 1980s

Prince Charles and Neal's Yard Dairy Promote British Cheese Culture

Neal's Yard Dairy grew to become one of the biggest influencers in the cheese revolution of the 1980s, which saw traditional cheesemaking flourish in the UK.

But, in 1989, disaster struck.

Improperly prepared unpasteurized cheese caused a small-scale Listeria outbreak , prompting the British government to ban unpasteurized cheese.

Randolph Hodgson, whose Neal's Yard Dairy sold almost exclusively unpasteurized cheese, was horrified. He had recently founded the Specialist Cheesemakers Association (SCA), whose purpose was precisely to promote the culture of traditional - and mostly unpasteurized - cheeses in the UK.

Randolph contacted Major Patrick Rance , whose extensive research into listeria allowed them to show that the link to unpasteurized cheese was in fact false. At the time the ban was announced, another figure, Charles, Prince of Wales, had spoken out in favor of unpasteurized cheese. He gave his support to the fledgling Specialist Cheesemakers Association and remains their patron.

Together, Randolph, Major Rance, and Prince Charles overturned the government ban.

Charles’ support for small producers did not stop there. He used his influence to help Randolph and the SCA, together with the government and leading scientists, develop a code of best practice, which remains an invaluable resource for UK cheesemakers today. Its existence means that it is still legal to make unpasteurised cheese, and is accepted as a completely safe food product.

Long live British cheeses!

During the 1990s, the reputation and production of British cheeses flourished. Increased interest in farmers' markets and the establishment of London's Borough Market in 1998 also led to a growing awareness of quality food. All of this meant that traditional cheesemaking was once again a more attractive proposition.

Prince Charles at the opening of Borough Market in 1998

Prince Charles has continued to champion traditional farming and small-scale food production in the UK. His influence in promoting British cottage cheese culture has continued from the listeria scandal to the present day. Today, there are almost 200 artisan cheese makers in the UK!

Over the years, Charles has helped raise awareness of the unique and diverse range of British country cheeses, and has helped create new opportunities for small farmers and producers to market their products to a wider audience.

In 1995, Prince Charles launched his own organic cheese brand, Duchy Originals Organic Cheese Company. This initiative was part of his wider efforts to support local and sustainable farming and help small farmers and producers compete in the market. The cheese was made from milk from a local organic farmers' cooperative and was sold in high-end grocery stores across the UK.

Prince Charles' involvement in the cheese industry didn't stop with his own brand, however. Charles has visited Neal's Yard Dairy on several occasions, as well as meeting cheesemakers from around the country - one of which is Lynher Dairies , which makes Cornish Kern and Cornish Yarg cheeses!

Prince Charles to inspect Cornish Kern production in 2022

In recent years, Prince Charles has continued to promote British cottage cheese through his attendance at the Royal Academy of Culinary Arts and work with the Campaign for Real Farming . He has also continued to support Neal's Yard Dairy, which has become one of the most respected and influential cheese shops in the UK.

Overall, Prince Charles' commitment to supporting sustainable farming and local food production has helped to spark a new interest in British cottage cheese culture. He has promoted and supported small farmers and producers, helping to ensure that this important part of British culinary heritage continues to flourish.

So, long live King Charles III and British cheese culture!