WRÅNGEBÄCK: The Story of the Resurgence of Swedish Cheese Culture
A Glimpse into History: The Unexpected Legacy of the Depression
When the Great Depression hit in 1929, Swedish politicians wanted to help struggling farmers. A nationwide campaign to collectivize food production began, and few of the decision-makers could have guessed how their well-intentioned efforts would shape Swedish cheese culture and consumer behavior for generations.
Wrångebäck was registered as a brand name in 1889, making it Sweden's first registered cheese brand. The cheese had been made in Almnäs since the 13th century and continuously since the 1830s. The recipe had remained popular with gentlemen and gourmets for centuries.
As a well-known independent dairy, Almnäs had persevered alongside cooperatives when guests at the 500th anniversary dinner of the Swedish Parliament enjoyed Wrångebäck cheese in 1935. The cheese was also served a year later at a charity event at Haga Castle in Stockholm, organized by Crown Princess Sibylla herself.
After this, Wrångebäck manufacturing declined due to both World War II and legislation favoring large cooperatives.
The Struggle of Small Producers in the Shadow of Large Cooperatives
Echoes of the past can still be heard. Small cheesemakers face daily challenges as they compete with large cooperatives. Where there used to be 800 independent dairies, by 1980 there were only 20 left. Almnäs Bruk cheesemaking ceased in 1961.
As consumers became accustomed to buying standardized foods from supermarkets for generations, they lost a vital connection to farmers and the sources of their food.
Traditions Come Alive
Wrångebäck’s story is by no means unique; it closely resembles the struggle for survival of traditional cheesemaking in Great Britain. During World War II, the British government ordered cheesemakers to abandon centuries-old traditions in favor of a “state cheese.” Traditional cheesemaking almost disappeared within a few years.
But history has shown that passion and collaboration can ignite even the faintest spark. The combined efforts of farmers, cheesemakers and visionaries, such as the current monarch of Great Britain, since the 1980s have revived an appreciation for traditional, sustainable farming and cheesemaking.
The Beginning of the Northern Omani Cheese Renaissance
Just like Mrs. Kirkham's Lancashire cheese in 1980s Britain, Wrångebäck stands as a symbol of the Nordic cheese renaissance.
In 2008, the owners of Almnäs Bruk set out on a mission to revive the historic Wrångebäck cheese. They found the last dairyman to make the cheese, Hans Stiller, who had memorized the recipe and instructions for Wrångebäck. Hans was already 82 years old at the time.
The first Wrångebäck in over half a century was completed at the Almnäs Bruk dairy in the spring of 2009.
Symphony of Sustainability: From Farm to Table
Everything at Almnäs Bruk is designed to respect the environment and natural life cycles. As an organic farm, their commitment to responsible farming goes far beyond avoiding the use of artificial fertilizers, chemical pesticides, or chemically grafted seeds. Respect for the landscape guides all choices: roadsides and field edges are left uncut so that birds and animals can nest in peace, and plants that encourage pollinators and increase biodiversity are always a priority.
Almnäs Bruk’s dedication to its animals reflects their commitment to the land. A diverse range of feeds – grass, silage, cereals and legumes – ensures the cows have a nutritious diet. Organic milk production is not just a practice; it is a promise to respect the environment and the animals’ natural behaviour. A team of 25 people care for the cows every day, ensuring their well-being all year round.
The result is milk, a living product that in its natural form is unique to Almnäs and the main ingredient in their wonderful cheese, Wrångebäck.
The Timeless Enchantment of Wrångebäck
One of the first tasks in reviving cheese production in Almnäs was to use the wooden boards from the old dairy in the new ripening room. The original bacterial cultures left on the boards give the cheese an authentic flavour, while also preserving an unbroken chain of bacterial cultures that dates back at least 150 years.
Wrångebäck is undoubtedly the icon of Swedish manor cheese. Matured for 10–15 months, the cheese smells slightly tart, with a grassy and milky aroma of a warm barn. The cheese has a tart, multi-layered umami, where you can find toasted butter and nuts. The mouthfeel is smooth, dense and creamy.
In 2018, Wrångebäckin rose to the world stage after winning a silver medal at the prestigious World Cheese Awards in Bergan, Norway.
Serving suggestions:
Try it instead of the familiar Västerbotten cheese at an early autumn crab table, or on a cheese platter instead of Cheddar or Alpine cheese. Recommended with a medium-bodied but mildly tannic red wine, such as Pinot Noir or a soft French Malbec. Also try it with a rustic apple cider or pale beer!